Lessons learned on the road

Lessons learned on the road

Before we started our journey, I considered myself a seasoned traveller. Little did I know how much I would learn. Here are a few examples:

1) There’s a hole in the ozone layer over Australia. Yes, that’s right! Just over Australia. Now, some people say it’s moving, while others say there’s a hole over Thailand, but since Australia has one of the highest rates of skin cancer, I’m applying sunscreen multiple times a day, and I see everyone else doing the same.

2) Always carry toilet paper. Whether you’re in Africa, Indonesia or anywhere in between. You’ll never know when you might need it. Don’t think that just because you’re in an international airport, they would have TP, because that’s just not the case.

3) There’s no such thing as calling collect to your credit card company in third world countries. That 800 number that’s listed on the back of your credit card does not work outside the United States. It’s almost impossible to find a landline, let alone an operator. I’ve tried googling how to make a collect call and there is information on how to do it, but it never worked. I bought Skype credit very cheaply and it works well (even if I have to call on my dime).

4) Your international debit or credits cards don’t work in all locations. In developing countries, the cost of using cards is too high for vendors, so there’s a service charge added to your bill if you pay by credit. Cash rules. You’ll just need to find an ATM that accepts your card — and hope it has enough cash!

5) Always carry a flashlight when walking at night. I’ve seen sidewalks that have two foot gaps in them leading to the sewer 8 feet below.

6) It’s hard for a woman to get a good haircut. Now Bill wouldn’t say the same for men since he has had a few inexpensive haircuts that he’s happy with. But that hasn’t been my experience. I ask for a trim and end up getting it chopped off. I had a rather difficult time explaining that I only wanted my hair to be thinned out. I had to look for the right scissors and show them to her.

7) When checking out hotels on islands in the developing world, it’s a good idea to ask if they have freshwater showers (hot water helps as well). You really can’t get you or your clothes clean using salt water. White shirts don’t stay white for long with salt or fresh water. For long-term travel, pack dark colors only.

8) You don’t always need to make advance room or tour reservations. Booking in advance costs more. Most of the time, you get a better rate if you walk in off the street. If you have to make an advance reservation, make it for only one night. The hotel could be quite different from what they advertise online. You can always add more nights once you’ve checked out the hotel. This doesn’t apply during high season.

9) There’s the locals’ price and then there’s the tourists’ price; and there’s a big difference between the two. You can be sure that the locals didn’t pay $65 for a “nurse’s” visit on tiny Gili Air. I’m guessing they would pay about $2.

10) Always shop around. Don’t buy something in the first place you look and never pay full price. Negotiate. If you think you’re offering a fair price, and the seller doesn’t budge, walk away. 99% of the time, they will call you back and accept your price.

11) In developing countries, cigarette smoking is very popular and people can and do smoke in restaurants and bars.

12) Massages are really cheap in the developing world where labor is inexpensive. ($10 for a 90 minute massage.)

13) English is spoken (or at least understood) in most countries. Be careful what you say — people might be listening.

14) Squattie potties are difficult to use if you have bad knees and offer little, if any, privacy.

15) It helps to know the metric system. It’s used almost everywhere outside the US.

16) Most people are friendly and helpful. They are more than happy to give you directions or offer advice.

I’m looking forward to new experiences and what else I might learn.

What about you? What have you learned in your travels that has surprised you?

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Oz: The Get Go

Oz: The Get Go

We arrived in Cairns via a stop-over in Perth where we were able to pick up a replacement for Cindy’s iPad at the airport duty-free shop. Cindy’s iPad Air was one of the few, or perhaps the only, bargain we found in Australia.

The first order of business in Australia was taking care of Cindy’s scratched cornea. Back in Indonesia, it took much longer than expected for her urinary tract infection to go away. It finally did but just days later, she woke up to a stinging pain in her eye along with an ultra-sensitivity to light. We were on the wonderful island of Gili Air so had to go to the tiny local health clinic. She was seen by a nurse –not the blond-haired, caucasian woman pictured on the local billboard we’d laughed at days before– who gave her some useless eye drops, charged an outrageous tourist-gouging $65 for the visit and eye bandage, and then recommended she go to the new internationally accredited hospital on Lombok. Since we missed the ferry, we had to wait until the next day, thereby leaving one day earlier than planned. The next day we traveled back to Lombok, dropped off our luggage and took a taxi to the hospital to see an ophthalmologist. After waiting over 4 hours, we saw the ophthalmologist for a 45-minute visit who recommended a 5-day hospital stay to treat the ulcerated cornea with antibiotics administered through I.V.. It seemed like trying to kill a mosquito with a sledge-hammer. He was a bit sheepish about Indonesia’s healthcare being inferior to Australia’s system but was clear about getting treatment there since it would only be in two more days. His visit cost $18, and the medicine (oral antibiotics, topical antibiotics and NSAID pain killers) about $30. Forward to Australia. After a 15 minute wait at a 24-hour medical clinic in Cairns, we saw a (G.P.) physician who examined Cindy (also un-rushed), confirmed the diagnosis, prescribed a different topical antibiotic and gave her a referral to a local ophthalmologist should she need more expertise. Also, he recommended she wear an eye patch which the Indonesian ophthalmologist nixed. The visit was $70 and the medicine about $30. In a week and a half, she was 98% better. Considering the cost of healthcare premiums in the U.S., maybe the duty-free iPad wasn’t the only bargain in Australia.

biking cairns

Crikey! Watch out for crocs and just keep on riding!

Crikey! Watch out for crocs and just keep on riding!

Our first full touring day in Cairns we rented bikes taking to the outskirts of town. We locked them up to climb some hills and then to see the beautiful botanic gardens.

I could hear Steve Irwin, "That orchid was huuuge"

That orchid was huge.

We booked two tours through a local travel agency while in Cairns. The first was a trip to the Great Barrier Reef right out of Cairns and the second was a two-day/one night sailing trip a few days later around the Whitsunday Islands, a day’s ride south. The day on the GBR was a combo trip, I would do three dives and Cindy could snorkel. It was an expensive day and I would describe the trip as a ‘factory tour’ since the boat, though not even full, was geared to taking a lot of people for the long trip to the outer reef in a very structured and highly regimented fashion. The divers were split into three groups of 8 each and the snorkelers were all released on to the reef en mass. It’s often difficult to combine snorkeling with diving since good snorkeling requires the water depth to be not much more than 7 or 8 feet. This was a good place to dive and snorkel, though, and I was glad Cindy had the opportunity to experience the GBR. And we did so together, at least on the boat ride out and back. The trip for both of us was $420. Snorkeling cost $190 and the dives cost almost three times as much as I was paying in Indonesia.

  Cindy is snorkeling there, somewhere

Cindy is snorkeling there, somewhere.

As we traveled south out of Cairns, we passed through light green pancake-flat valleys lined with dark green mountains in the distance. As we got farther south, the dominant agricultural products, bananas and sugar cane lined the roads. We stopped at Mission Beach for a stretch and a short hike. It was nice to get away from the crowds.

Mission Beach is about 2 hours south of Cairns.

Mission Beach is about 2 hours south of Cairns.

My plantar fasciitis had been getting worse so I researched and booked an appointment with a ART (Active Release Techniques) therapist in Townsville, about half way to Airlie Beach where we would embark on the Whitsundays sail. I had great results with the issue almost 10 years ago with an ART practitioner, so I had high hopes.

  View from Castle Hill. Townsville in the foreground, Magnetic Island in the background.

View of Townsville from Castle Hill. Magnetic Island in the background.

Usually meticulous about showing up on time, I really blew it when I accidentally showed up for the therapist appointment 2 hours late because I’d written down the wrong time. He was booked for the rest of the day so now I had to find another therapist further south that could fit me in their schedule.

It wasn’t a total loss as Cindy and I had a great time in Townsville. We enjoyed Castle Hill, the esplanade, went for a night-time swim and visited a cultural center that focused on the people who came from islands in the Torres Strait and settled in Australia.

 Good for swimming, day and night.

Stinger nets make for safe swimming, day and night.

Ironically, the northern Queensland coast is stacked with miles of beautiful, broad white-sand beaches and a wide-open Pacific Ocean with toasty warm temps, but certain times of the year the waters are invaded by various types of jellyfish (some of which can cause fatalities), or “stingers” which necessitate swimming inside of areas protected by nets.

sail

We arrived in Airlie Beach the night before the cruise of the Whitsundays, a gorgeous group of 74 islands that make up part of the GBR. We shared Hammer, a 75-foot former racing sail boat, with 20 other travelers, all Europeans except for us and an Aussie couple. It was pouring rain when we woke that day, and once on-board, the captain gave a speech about how it was definitely going to rain and what a great time we’d all have anyway. It drizzled for the first 5 minutes and that was the last of any precipitation for the remainder of the trip.

Like a Porsche on the water

Handles like a Porsche on water. Yeah, baby!

It was cloudy for the most of the first day which is not a bad thing considering the devilish sun in Australia. While in Turkey, we met a lot of Aussies who told us of a hole in the ozone layer over Australia. It was a bit hard to swallow, but in fact, it has one of the highest rates of skin cancer. So for years, Aussies have lathered on the sun-block and now there is apparently a vitamin D deficiency in the population.

Snorkel, mask, stinger suit, dorky tourist with patient, understanding wife. Ok, ready to go.

Snorkel, mask, stinger suit, dorky tourist with patient and understanding wife. Ok, ready to go.

The second day was sun-filled, rounding out the entire two-day fair-weather cruise. The passengers on the boat were a fun and interesting group of people. Pretty much wherever we traveled we’d always meet Germans and this trip was no exception. They get lots of vacation time and are perennial travelers. Perhaps a third of the passengers were from Germany and they included a judge and a former WNBA basketball player.

Whitehaven beach on the Whitsundays..

The Whitsundays.

Mid-Queensland travel-fest

Mid-Queensland travel-fest

After the 11 hour drive from MacKay to Rainbow Beach, I was wondering if we were keeping to our ‘less is more’ philosophy. It was a tough day on the road. We got stopped along the way due to an accident almost in the middle of nowhere. As the traffic backed up while waiting for emergency vehicles, a few cars started to turn around to navigate around the main highway. I followed the advice of a local trucker who thought it would take a long time to clear the road. I made a u-turn to follow the pack, and after what seemed like quite a few extra miles on a hard-pack road and then crossing a stream about 12 inches deep, I came to the conclusion I probably should have waited for the traffic to clear on the main road. It was confirmed when I got back on the road and saw that we were behind the traffic that had stopped at the accident.

Just after passing through the former timber town of Maryborough, dusk had fallen and I had completed about 10 hours of driving. Suddenly, out of nowhere, two kangaroos appeared on the left side of the road and started to cross. As I braked, I started to angle the car to the opposite side of the road to increase the distance between me and the kangaroos. I stopped just in time. They continued their travels across the front of the car to the other side of the road oblivious to how close they came to becoming kangaroo burgers and without a roo-care in the world. For me, this was the start of a 1-hour white-knuckled drive down a darkening and desolate road. Not only did I start to see kangaroo warning signs, there were also signs indicating the lack of border fences along the road, followed by others with the icons of horses indicating the presence of the very large, feral creatures. I recalled the guy who was on the line in front of me at the car rental agency buying extra insurance because, “it wouldn’t take much to do some real damage hitting a kangaroo”. I thought to myself that hitting a horse could really ruin your day. I was so glad to arrive at our accommodations. I was exhausted.

Feral mare and foal on Rainbow Beach.

Feral mare and foal on Rainbow Beach.

The next day we got picked up in a 4-wheel drive monster-truck for the tour of Fraser Island, the world’s largest sand island.

On 75-mile beach, Fraser Island

On 75-mile beach, Fraser Island

Our tour guide, Henning, was the most entertaining one to date. He was German with an accent like Aaahhnold and would occasionally increase the pitch in his voice for effect. I was expecting him to say, “Get to za chaaapah” at any moment. Much of the drive was along the wide, white sands of Seventy-five Mile Beach or through forest and he spoke almost the whole time giving a history of the island and information about the flora and fauna; well done, since it broke up the trip. His best schtik came towards the end of the tour when he got into some of his personal story. His wife divorced him after bearing three kids, all girls. She took the kids, the house, his money, the pension fund, etc.. But he got his revenge when 6 months later, to his ex’s horror, he married a Phillipina woman 20 years younger. Shortly thereafter, he was a father again with a 4th child, now a toddler, and his young wife was pregnant with his 5th child. It was really good deadpan humor; he had the whole bus laughing.

Dingos on Fraser Island are the most pure breed due its isolation.

Dingos on Fraser Island are the most pure breed due its isolation.

The Land of Oz

The Land of Oz

Ever since I was a little nipper I wanted to go to Australia. I was in grade-school and remember reading a National Geographic book on Australia thinking, “Whoa. That looks like a really cool place. I’ve got to go there!” And years later, while working a coop job while in college, I did a bit of research into working there, visas, etc.. but I never made it. So now, finally, I made it. And wow, what a country!

There are some real similarities between Australia and the U.S. First is size. They’re huge geographically and distances can be incredibly daunting in scale. Complications of navigating your way around New England may prompt a local to say, “You can’t get there from here”. In Australia, it may be said because it’s probably too dang far away. Both were British colonies, though, Australia’s genesis is much more jocular having started as a penal colony. I always seem to hear Nelson, the character from “The Simpsons”, with a taunting “Ha Ha!”, to their former colonial overlords. Lastly, our nations began with european immigrants who screwed over indigenous (and non-white) populations for countless decades.

Then, there are some differences. At home in the U.S., the consumer is king. Here, the consumer is seemingly liable for all transactions. If you buy something and the store doesn’t like your reason for return, you can forget about getting a refund. Cindy found out the hard way when she purchased an iPad screen saver from an iStore, then found another for half the price somewhere else. When she tried to get a refund the iStore rejected the return because her reason wasn’t good enough. A few days later we went into a shoe store and a sign at the cash register instructed customers to make choices carefully because you can’t just ‘change your mind’ if you want to bring things back.

In the cities and municipalities we’ve been to so far, signs are posted instructing pedestrians to yield to traffic. Many times, though, drivers will stop politely deferring to pedestrians so they can cross first. On the road drivers are often polite to each other, as well. One thing I’ve seen is that it’s common for them to use their turn signals warning others of intended moves. For example, two-lane highways often merge one lane into two after a ‘passing zone’ and despite clear signage, drivers will signal the intent to merge to those behind them. It’s very pleasant.

We speak the same language……sort of. I love the Australian accent. Who wouldn’t want to go to an Outback Steakhouse or drink Foster’s Lager after listening to one of their ads? But sometimes, from a distance, I listen to locals speak and wonder what language their speaking. Sometimes they speak very fast, sometimes they use different words, and sometimes they slur words. Sometimes I just have a hard time understanding them. One of the funny things they do often is shorten words. Brisbane is Brizzy, mosquitos are mozzies, and Woolworth’s is Woolys.

By the Esplanade in Cairns

By the Esplanade in Cairns

The Aussies really seem to have it together, civilly speaking. The parks are well-maintained and very accessible with lots of public swimming pools, water fountains in good working order, BBQ’s for public use and beautiful parks and areas for common use. Public servants are often seen working away at whatever task is at hand. As we travel along, we see many public roads being widened and improved.

Australia has one of the highest life expectancies in the world. Their healthcare system is universal and is funded by taxing everyone 1.5% of their income, except for those with low-income who may pay nothing and the wealthy who pay more.

Mission Beach. One of the countless beautiful beaches.

Mission Beach. One of the countless beautiful beaches.

Back to Egypt with Mr. Bob

Many of the people we meet along the way leave an enduring impression. Mr. Bob was one of them.

We’re not exactly sure where we first met Mr. Bob. We know it was in Egypt but aren’t sure if it was Cairo or Aswan. Mr. Bob is a tout/tour agent who seemed to show up everywhere. Perhaps in his mid 30’s or early 40’s, he had a cherubic, honest looking face. He was not overbearing and had good instincts. He quickly picked up that I wouldn’t cave in to his pricing quickly so bargaining become a bit easier as he knew we were ‘value’ shoppers; striking a reasonable agreement was an almost effortless affair. Aside from a taxi ride or two, the one big tour we booked through him was a day or half day of the city of the dead on the West Bank of Luxor. Sights were spread out and we had no transportation so a tour with guide and driver made a lot of sense.

We found out through our guide that Mr. Bob actually worked for the railroad in some capacity. (We’re not sure what his railroad job was really supposed to be but Mr. Bob’s number one job was clearly to take good care of Mr. Bob.) That made good sense as one of the memorable moments was getting off the train in Luxor from Aswan, and amongst the chaos that inevitably ensues when a bus or train arrives at a station, there he was, ready with a taxi driver/friend/brother/cousin to take us to our hotel. It was almost like he knew we were coming…..though, he did say he was at the station “fishing” for customers.

The last time we saw Mr. Bob was at the bus station in Luxor. I don’t know why we were surprised to see him there as he was getting to be such a familiar face wherever we went. And after all, the bus station would certainly be one of his “fishing holes”. I think of Mr. Bob occasionally and wonder how he fared during and after the coup, though, I’m pretty sure Mr. Bob is OK.

Komodo

Komodo

We booked two separate flights on different airlines to get from Manado, North Sulawesi to Labuan Bajo, Flores; we had a reasonably long 2 1/2 hour stopover in Bali. We came to find out that we had to pay an extra departure tax of $8 by taking different airlines and it also meant a long walk from the arrival terminal to the departure terminal. It also resulted in a hair-raising wait for our luggage. Our first flight was slightly delayed, though, not so much to cause concern. After we arrived in Bali, the baggage claim area was small — only 3 carousels – but somewhat confusing since the flights that the baggage came from were not posted. There were just paper signs at the carousel indicating the airline associated with the flights. The first batch of luggage from Manado came on to the carousel quickly, and then we waited…..and waited and waited. Now we were watching the clock nervously since we still had to go through security again and check in for the flight to Flores. After almost 30 minutes we were still waiting for our luggage with about 1/2 of the other passengers so I decided to go over to the lost luggage desk to see what was up. There were about 5 female employees ‘working’ the lost luggage desk, one of which was eating her lunch while the others stood around talking to each other. I asked who spoke English and then gave my story while presenting my luggage claim tickets. They called the manager over who had to take the ticket to another office. Just after he took the ticket, I heard the luggage had arrived on the carousel. I took the ticket back and we grabbed out bags. We had to hustle, and fast! It was almost 1/2 hour to flight departure. We scooted out of the arrival terminal and, with both big backpacks stacked on my back, we wound our way through corridor after corridor for the surprisingly long walk to the departure terminal. Fortunately (or maybe not) security is somewhat lax. We breezed through security and found the check-in desk had no line. We checked our bags, got our boarding passes and got on another line to pay our departure tax; then back through security number 2 racing our way to the gate. The next flight was running late, as well. It was a weird mixture of feeling relief and exasperation. Once again, information about the pending flight was sparse. We finally boarded the turbo-prop Merpati Airline plane. I overheard some Americans talking nervously about getting on to their first non-jet powered airplane. It was another first for us, too, since the approximately 100-passenger capacity plane had a foul, moldy odor.

The stinky-est plane around

The stinky-est plane around

The terminal at Labuan Bajo consisted of two small buildings but right behind it was the construction of a new, modern terminal that would be used to accommodate larger numbers of passengers. They were expanding the airport so it could accommodate jets and perhaps international flights. Luggage collection was done by a handler passing the bags over a bench separating the outside from inside of a building.

Labuan Bajo is a fast growing tourist town. Just 3 years ago the paved asphalt main street was packed gravel.

Labuan Bajo harbor

Labuan Bajo harbor

Along with the usual bevy of tourist agencies, restaurants and hotels, there were several scuba diving centers from which to choose. The area features some of the best diving in the world due to the confluence of the warm Pacific waters flowing south and the cooler Indian Ocean flowing north creating a plankton-rich diverse marine environment. And because of the difference in heights of the oceans it causes some of the world’s fastest and most dangerous currents. Nearby, Rinca and Komodo Islands sit, respectively, 1.5 to 2 hours away by boat. They are part of the Komodo National Park and the only place in the world (save a couple of other local islands) to find the Komodo Dragon, the world’s largest lizard.

Gone were the real local restaurants of Manado where we could get terrific meals for under $5 for two, but the upside were some very good Italian restaurants with excellent food. We were very surprised to find excellent thin crust pizza and great tasting fresh pasta, albeit at relatively high prices. (A basic margarita, cheese and tomato sauce pizza goes for about $6.)

Our first couple of days in Flores were filled with rain. Some locals said the season had changed early this year. On top of the foul weather, Cindy started developing stomach problems which put a damper on our activities. It lasted a few days and I finally prevailed upon her to go to the local hospital. She saw a doctor within 5 minutes, urinalysis completed in one hour, given antibiotics upon exit, and all for about $5.50!

I scheduled a three-dive scuba trip with an outfit called Paradise Komodo Divers. We haven’t met many other Americans on our trip, but while waiting in their office, I met one of the other divers who lives in Cindy’s sister’s town in Long Island. He and his Australian girlfriend are also on a round-the-world (diving) trip.

The dive trip with Paradise Komodo turned out to be a disaster. It took an hour to start the boat engines which died again after 15 minutes out of port. After getting up and running back to port I went looking for the dive center owner 3 times that day eventually catching up with him at 5pm. He didn’t have cash for a refund then but did make good by having my money delivered to my hotel that night. It was such a disappointment since I was so looking forward to diving in the area. This was my last chance since we were going to fly out in two days.

Once again, I scoured the dive centers in town to find an operator but checking the reviews more carefully before signing up. I found the Komodo Dive Center who were scheduled to go to the premier dive sites for a full day of 3 dives. The currents are notoriously strong and dangerous but we hit it around slack tide which diminished the currents’ strength. Still, the strategy on two of the dives were to descend to depth against the current and then hang on to a rock to avoid getting swept away and enjoy the show. It didn’t disappoint and may have ranked as the top 3 best dives I’d ever been on. It featured some of the largest undersea creatures I’d seen including 6-7 White Tip Reef sharks, a 2+ meter Grey Reef Shark, a giant Napoleon Wrasse, several large groupers, a spotted eagle ray, several schools of large fish, a devil scorpion fish and spectacularly colored pristine coral.

We scheduled a boat excursion the next day to visit Rinca Island to see the Komodo Dragons followed by stops at a couple of snorkeling spots. On Rinca, they require that everyone hire a guide. And for good reason. The Komodo Dragons are huge, scary creatures and have killed a couple of locals over recent years including a couple of guides. Our guide, Aris, was born and bred on Rinca. He was very vigilant and wary the entire tour. Komodo Dragons are stealth hunters who wait for their prey to pass and then attack.

Komodo Dragon prey include water buffalo and Timor Deer

Komodo Dragon prey include water buffalo and Timor Deer

They are even able to stand up on hind legs which must be quite an awesome and fearful sight; they grow up to 10 feet long. If the attack itself doesn’t inflict a fatality, the bite delivers a potent mixture of deadly bacteria that eventually kills the prey. Buffalo can take a week or two to succumb before becoming a happy meal to several dragons. From a distance, the dragons look a lot like logs on the forest floor. I’m not easily unnerved but Cindy and I were pretty uneasy while walking through the forest trails. The guide was armed only with the standard issue fork-ended wood stick.

We were fortunate to see two Komodo Dragons in the wild. This female was guarding her eggs.

We were fortunate to see two Komodo Dragons in the wild. This female was guarding her eggs.

After Rinca, we headed for some snorkeling. No else had signed up for the tour so we had the boat to ourselves.

rinca snorkeling trip

We flew out of Labuan Bajo airport the next day, back through Bali to Lombok Island and the tourist town of Sengiggi. This time we flew the same airline for both flights avoiding exit taxes and dealing with luggage transfers. As we went through Bali airport I passed the lost luggage desk which was now manned by only two people but had a crowd of about 15-20 customers with luggage issues.

We stayed in Sengiggi two nights before heading to our final big stop in Indonesia: Gili Air.

This fisherman is prepared. He's totally protected if a big one he lands hits him in the head!

This fisherman is prepared. He’s totally protected if a big one he lands hits him in the head!

We got taken for ride by an agent in Sengiggi who sold us a bus/boat combo to Gili Air telling us the boat was a ‘shuttle’ boat vs the cheaper, but more crowded public boat. The bus/van was fine but when we got to the harbor at Bangsal it turned out we had tickets for an overcrowded public ferry. We refused to get on it, choosing to wait for the next one which almost an hour later, packed with cargo and just as crowded. They are supposed to limit the number of passengers to 20 but Cindy stopped counting at 40.

The public boat

The public boat

Ahhhh. Gili Air. Just the name sounds really cool. And it is. The only modes of transportation are boat, walking, bicycles and horse-drawn buggy or cidomo. No cars, no motorbikes, just laid back peace and quiet and an easy place to find that deserted beach that looks like no one else has ever been to.

A cidomo

A cidomo, complete with rear-view mirror.

We were able to snorkel right off the shore.

View of Mt. Rinjani volcano from Gili Air

View of Mt. Rinjani volcano from Gili Air

And bike right on the beach.

bike on the beach

And walk down quiet lanes.

quiet lane

Until time to say goodbye to our Indonesian adventure.

indonesian sunset